A Fishing Story

Casting a dry fly near Trout Creek Campground

The Deschutes River collects runoff from the cascade range and carries it through high desert plains, irrigated farm lands, and basalt canyons. Fifty miles from its mouth at the Columbia River, the city of Maupin sits on its bank. Just downriver from there are numerous BLM campsites that offer a fisher wade access, though it is prime driftboat water. Since moving to Central Oregon we spend less time fishing this section of the river, or more to the point, we’re more selective in the times we go there.

Stoneflies perch on blades of grass

In the spring we make a trip to catch the Stonefly hatch. This aquatic insect spends most of it’s life as a nymph burrowed in the river rock, but as water temperatures warm these exceptionally large bugs (three inches) start moving. They are headed toward the river’s edge and masses of the nymphs tumble along the streams bottom.

At this stage weighted stonefly imitations are very effective at attracting large rainbow trout.

 

It’s the transformation of nymph to insect that also changes the fishing from a wet fly swing to dry fly presentations. The stonefly crawls out of the water and up a stalk of grass and shucks the exoskeleton. It will go through a dozen or more of these ‘instars’ but it’s the last metamorphosis, on dry land, that produces a double winged insect with a distinctive orange body.

The stonefly lives only a couple of days and in that short period it mates, flies over the river, and deposits eggs back into the river. It is at this point where the cycle is reset and fish gorge themselves on spent stoneflies.

A dry fly presentation rarely misses and often nets big fish.

The presence of stoneflies in a river is usually an indicator of good water quality.

The stonefly hatch lasts just weeks but makes for memorable days on the river. While there are always a lot of anglers along the Deschutes, especially now, we’ve found that Trout Creek and South Junction are excellent places to gain access to the stream.

We’re a few miles upstream from Maupin, river levels are lower and wading is easier.  By next week the hatch will have slowed or stopped and we’ll be looking for some other bug to imitate as we mark calendars for next year’s outing.

 

Summer Flights

Great Egret and low-flying ducks

Maybe you noticed the increase in birds around your house. The spring migration is in full flight and millions of birds (222 million last night) were making their way north. It’s the perfect time to see species that don’t typically nest in your area.

Summer Lake Wildlife Refuge is a a major layover spot on the pacific flyway. As regular readers of this blog know we make frequent visits to the refuge, most of which are timed to take advantage of seasonal migrations.

Cinnamon Teal
American Pelicans
Red-winged Blackbird

This week we returned to Summer Lake, a second time, to check on the late spring migrators

We found a summer resident, the Red-winged Blackbirds, were already staking claim to cattail patches and singing mating songs.

A pair of Great Egrets were poking around in the reeds and a huge flock of Pelicans were gathered on a pond.

Black-necked Stilt

Some Black-necked Stilts were still around, but not nearly as many as last visit.

The new species, for us, were Caspian Terns who seemed to be hunting as they skimmed over the water heads down.

Caspian Terns
White-faced Ibis

Two other shore birds we’d not seen in pervious trips but got pix of this time were White-faced Ibis and Long-billed Curlew.

Like Stilts, these are waders with long beaks however, they are much larger. Unlike the stilts they were tucked into the reeds and much more difficult to get a good look at or frame for a photo.

This is likely our last trip to Summer Lake until fall. There are too many other adventures to fit in, plus the refuge’s inhabitants are already started to shift from visitors to the regulars.

Ancient Lake

Crystallized minerals encrust rocks along the lakeshore. This is Lake Abert, a remote saltwater lake in Oregon’s high desert … and it is disappearing.

A recent Oregon Natural Desert Assoc. (ONDA) Zoom lecture made us aware of a spot we’d been near but never by and offered the perfect day trip. This week we headed to Lake Abert.

At the end of the last ice age the melting glaciers created the 460 square mile fresh water Lake Chewaucan. Then over a 2 million year span, the Pleistocene epoch, the water slowly receded and as it dried up alkali and salt deposits were left. Summer lake and Lake Abert, some 20 miles apart are the remnants of that lake. Abert is a relatively shallow endorheic (no outlet) basin that holds a saltwater lake.

We drove the indirect route via the Christmas Valley Highway (County 5-14). Cutting north off OR 31 at Fort Rock and then east to the town of Christmas Valley.

Fort Rock in the distance

The Christmas Valley Highway takes us across a high desert plain of scrub and sage. There are patches of land with hay crops and cattle herds but without irrigation the land is sage brush on high desert sand.

OR 395 skirts the edge of Lake Abert and the Abert Rim. Numerous pull-outs provide a chance to view wildlife. There is no food, gas or lodging nearby.
We didn’t see bighorn sheep, but did spot several bald eagles.

At OR 395 we turn south and head toward Paisley OR. We are on the western edge of a fault scarp that raises to 2500 feet, topped with 800 feet of basalt.

This is the Abert Rim, home to Big Horn sheep (transplants from Hart Mountain) and a national hang gliding competition.

On the other side of OR 395 is the rocky shore of Lake Abert – Oregon’s only saltwater lake.

We hiked down to take a closer look. Lake Abert is the largest saline lake in the Pacific Northwest and one of the most important shorebird habitats in the intermountain west.

Humans have been living here for at least 11,000 years. Archeological surveys have identified more than thirty prehistoric sites some with round stone house pits, domestic artifacts, petroglyphs, and pictographs. there are no signs or markers to identify the historic district.

While some of the house pits and petroglyphs are close to the highway, there are no signs or markers to identify them as a way to protect the fragile sites.

We saw very few shore birds. By the end of this summer Lake Abert will likely be dry.

Abert was once a major stop on the migration of 3.5 million shore birds.

It’s saline waters offered a perfect ecology for brine shrimp and alkali flys, but no fish.

The high concentrations of sodium and alkali can be seen in the mineral crusts coating rocks and boulders on the lake’s shore line. Climate change, extended droughts and battles over Klamath Basin water rights play equal roles in the draining of Oregon’s only salt water lake.

 

A Blue Basin

We visited a beautiful, overlooked wonder at the John Day Fossil Beds … Blue Basin.

Oregon has an abundance of natural wonders and otherworldly places. Most of these destinations are an easy drive from our house. Thus we are making it a point to visiting as many as possible.

This week we headed back to the John Day Fossil Beds. We drove past Mitchell about 30 miles to the Sheep Rock Unit. The “Thomas Condon Paleontology Center” is located here. A recently constructed visitor building (open Fri, Sat, & Sun.) has the mandatory gift shop but also some excellent interpretive displays that detail the site’s history and fossils.

However, today we are headed to the north edge of the Sheep Rock Unit and the Blue Basin.

Sage brush dots the hills as we hiked our way into the heart of the basin.

There is a 4 mile loop trail that takes you to an overlook or a shorter 2 mile walk “trail through time” that follows the lower edge of the basin’s sculpted walls.

The shorter trail takes you into the canyon. Interpretive panels and fossil replicas are spaced throughout the trail.

A total of 13 metal grated surface bridges make it difficult on dog’s paws. Jack managed to carry Tip over several before they both called it quits.

Dogs are allowed (leashed) on the trail. However, there are a series of bridges crossing the ravine bottom decked with a paw-poking metal grates.

Tip wanted nothing to do with these and the alternate routes were just too precarious. He and I did make it to the entrance of the basin, found a  shaded bench to wait while JQ, camera in hand, documented the blue-green canyon for our blog.

A mere 44 million years ago this place was a tropical forest filled with lush vegetation (172 species) abundant wildlife including three toed horses and saber tooth tigers. Then 7 million years ago a volcano spewed hot ash and gas over a 13,000 square mile area. The event brought devastation to the plant and animal life but encased a treasure trove for 20th century geology and paleontology.

These fossil beds, exposed by erosion, contain saber-toothed nimravids, three-toed horses, tortoises and dogs.

Vegetation from that landscape turned into a unique blue-green soil that eventually eroded into what is now the Blue Basin. The Painted Hills site, it’s red and green layered hills seems to garner the most attention and is definitely a must see. However, Blue Basin is equally as fascinating and well worth the additional 30 minute drive.

River Fishers

Osprey with freshly caught Redband Trout

We make regular trips to the Crooked River, so as a reader of this blog you get to hear about this spot frequently. There’s repetition to these visits, but we attempt to post about the parts that are different.

This week we shared our picnic spot with an Osprey. Well to be clear, he was on the opposite side of the stream but that is still very close. The  old juniper snag he perched in stood on the river’s bank maybe 60 or 70 feet away … close.

On a couple of occasions he would swoop off down river and eventually return with a fish tucked up to his breast, land neatly on an exposed branch and calmly tear flesh from the carcass.  On this day he was having much better luck finding fish than I was.

 

And then there were two …
They are very capable fishers, being successful in 4 of 5 attempts. The Osprey is particularly well adapted for catching fish. They have reversible outer toes, sharp spicules on the underside of the toes, closable nostrils to keep out water during dives, and backwards-facing scales on the talons which act as barbs to help hold its catch.

 

Basically the odds are against the fish. William Shakespeare, in Croriolanus refers to a medieval belief that fish were mesmerized by the bird and turn their bellies up.

I think he’ll be to Rome
As is the osprey to the fish, who takes it
By sovereignty of nature.

Eagles, a larger bird, are known to attack Osprey hoping to get them to drop the catch.

We witnessed an eagle osprey encounter but it didn’t seem to  result in the eagle getting anything more than the run around. Osprey are very agile fliers.

Canada Geese with goslings still covered in down
Bufflehead ducks

Stream banks, the riparian, host a wide variety of creatures and it just takes quiet moments of observation to open a trove of plant, animal and insect life.

The water feeds more than hay fields miles down river or the aquatic life contained in the flow. Every trip to the river is a unique experience … and we love it.