Head Waters

Headwaters of the Crooked River

The Crooked River has been the subject of many posts on this blog, usually centered on fishing. This week, with a welcome break in poor air quality, we headed to the headwaters of our favorite stream.

Forests of Ponderosa Pine mixed with open prairie

The Ococho National forest lands sit between the saged high desert and the thickly forested cascade range.

A half hours drive east of Prineville puts you on the edge of Big Summit Prairie and a web of fresh water springs feeding into the North Fork of the Crooked River.

As the name implies this stream meanders across central Oregon, most of it through hay and pasture land.

Tip finds a nice spot of shade
Lunch at Deep Creek

The canyon we frequent most is some 50 or 60 miles downstream of  Deep Creek Campground.

We’ve pulled in here for a bit of lunch and a cup of coffee. The air is clean, filled with the scent of Ponderosa and it feels like Fall.

 

Deep Creek feeds into the North Fork as it turns south, away from the road and through a forested canyon and wilderness study area. The only way to fish that stretch is by trail and today we’re not prepared for that journey.

Eagle Rock, a popular site for rock enthusiasts, and a visit for another day.

We follow USFS 42 over yet another low mountain range heading south and west. The pine forest gives way to ancient juniper and volcanic rock fields. At the junction with OR 380 we are surrounded by cattle ranches and the North Fork merges into the Crooked. It stays in this grassy valley for 30 miles before winding south into the Prineville reservoir. After which it will exit Bowman dam and wind through the basalt lined canyon we frequent.

We skirt the eastern edge of the reservoir, through Prineville and after a brief stop for chocolate soft-serve at the local DQ, head home. It was very nice to be out of the smoke and haze for a day.

Annual Fruit Stand Trip

Catching the end of peach season

This week we headed up to Hood River and a trip through the Fruit Loop. It is a bit earlier than normal, but a great break from the smoky air that plagues Central Oregon.

The drive is an annual trek and usually focuses on Kiyokawa’s orchard, a favorite stand. The difference is this year we are early by nearly a month and thus the selection is different. We’re looking for peaches and plums with thoughts of preserving a few, and of course making Pflaumenkuchen.

Bartlett pears, red and yellow, are part of the early season harvest on the Fruit Loop.

The apple season is just starting so where normally there would be tens of varieties, this day there was maybe half a dozen to choose from. There was also a selection of pears, as they are in season as well.  On the other hand, peaches are end of season, but we found some Veterans which we’ll preserve a couple of quarts to keep the pantry up to date.

The drawback to Kiyokawa is they only sell in bulk. The pandemic has curtailed open bins with tasting trays for each variety and now you buy by the pound.

We stopped at a new stand, Pearls Place. There you can pick up individual pieces, as well as boxed or bagged fruit. 

Pearl’s had a great variety of stone fruit and in that mix were Italian Prune Plums, which were at the top of our list.

It worked out well to hit the  orchards at a different point in the season and we are enjoying the peaches as much as the apples and pears. The trip home was through Maupin with lunch on the Deschutes River. It was a great end to a nicely smoke-free day.

Gorgeous day on the Deschutes River
Lunch started with freshly sliced peaches, a perfect ending to a great day.

 

 

 

 

 

A Car Trip to Wilderness

A lone tree marks the trailhead into the Spring Basin Wilderness. Numerous side canyons provide opportunities for solitude. On this particular day we had the place to ourselves.

This week’s adventure focused on the Spring Basin Wilderness Study Area and our continued search for desert blooms. Cacti generally, more specifically Hedgehog Cactus, hopefully in bloom. Oregon’s high desert doesn’t support cactus like the southwest desert, however, there are prickly pear and hedgehog cacti and Spring Basin is known to have both.

Wild Heliotrope

The adventure starts with a drive north out of Madras and in a few miles we turn east toward Fossil. The route winds through high desert pine forests presenting an abundance of spring blossoms right along the highway. Spring Basin’s trailhead is reached by gravel road off Shaniko-Fossil Hwy just after you cross the John Day River.

A weathered sign board in a dusty parking area with a single flat metal post designates the trailhead. There is only a bit of shade offered by a single pine tree. A gentle incline, covered in sage and native grasses, sits below basalt cliffs marking the wilderness areas outer edges. The cacti we’re looking for may be scattered along this hillside and we assume, after the trail crests the cliff, though we’ve not hiked that far up.

JQ hoped to get a shot of a hedghog cactus in bloom, a rare find, but was just as pleased to discover a prickly pear cactus blossom.

Brittle Prickly Pear Cactus

After Spring Basin we continue the drive east to Fossil, then turn south eventually crossing back over the John Day River and connecting with Twickenham Road. At this junction we are on the eastern edge of Sutton Mountain Wilderness study area.

Sutton Mountain Back Country Byway

Sutton Mountain’s West border runs up against the Painted Hills Unit. That side of the wilderness study area looks somewhat innocuous, just a series of sage and grass covered hills that aren’t all that mountainous.

We’ve driven the gravel road from Painted Hills to the John Day River and Burnt River Ranch. The journey on this side of Sutton Mountain offers a totally different geology.

Emerald-green lichen covers the rock walls of Girds Creek Canyon

A gravel road cuts through a canyon lined with amazing cliffs of basalt. It  then drops into the John Day river valley where the deep green of irrigated fields contrasts with hillsides colored in shades of brown.

High desert cliffs of Sutton Mountain

A narrow single track gravel road hugs the boundary’s now more mountain-like slopes twisting around ridges and into ravines. Eventually it flattens back out onto grazing land and connects with the Burnt Ranch Road.

Here we turn south, pass the Painted Hills unit onto Highway 26 and home.

Rock Hounds

Many years ago we took a weeklong camping trip to explore rockhounding sites in Oregon. This trip involved lots of dirt roads, a few flat tires and hours of digging holes in the ground.

It also turned us into full on rockhounds. Which means we’re not just picking up the occasional colored stone, we do that too … however, we also drive down remote dirt tracks specifically just to pick up rocks.

Fischer Canyon

Oregon has an abundance of unique rocky sites many of which are just hours from our front door. This week’s adventure was a scouting trip of sorts to checkout some sites with Limb Casts, Petrified Wood, and Agates. BLM’s “Central Oregon Rockhounding Map” and Rockhounding Oregon by Lars Johnson are our guides through this mostly gravel and dirt road journey.

First stop is Fischer Canyon, a few miles south of our frequented Crooked River. You’re supposed to be able to find calcite, agate, quartz, jasper and petrified wood, with calcite being the most common. We found the place and a few small pieces of calcite like rock. Did not do a lot of heavy digging as this was only the first stop.

Next we headed to Bear Creek and here you are able to find petrified wood. It’s interesting to note that the rockhounding book often warns of road conditions with passages like “Road is impassable when wet. Don’t even try.” Often these roads are little more than a couple of ruts in the desert sand. JQ did locate a nice piece of petrfied wood in our short wander around Bear Creek … right next to the spot where we parked the car.

Petrified wood, Hampton Butte

The final destination was Hampton Butte with limb casts of Jasper and Agate, as well as petrified wood. This is also a more productive site with lots of active “digs”. Here we broke out the shovel and managed to scrape up some small greenish rocks that we hope are Jasper. They will eventually make it into the tumbler and either polish or disolve. Hampton Butte’s road was much better than the guide book lead us to believe and there are plenty of shaded parking sites. Though on this day there were also a couple of RV rigs already set up.

There are more rock hunting adventures planned. We have only just begun to explore all the sites on BLM’s map. Plus, I acquired a gold pan for my birthday and there are some Umqua and Mckenzie River sites with promise of fine gold. As always we’ll keep you updated on our journeys.

An Ancient Lake Bed

A recent post described our trip to Abert Lake. This week we explore a bit farther East to another ancient lake bed and the fault-block mountain beside it.

Warner Valley is covered by a chain of lakes with marsh land between.
Warner Valley, Oregon

At the end of the last ice age the Warner Valley was filled with water and it’s slopes lined with tropical forests. Today this is desert marsh land among a string of small lakes at the foot of Hart Mountain and it’s National Antelope Refuge.

Like Summer and Abert Lakes to the west and Malheur to the north this 60 mile stretch of shallow lakes and wetlands is a lure for migrating birds. On this mid-June day there is still some winter runoff filling lake beds that will mostly be dry in just a few months.

We love the wide open spaces of Oregon’s High Desert. You can see forever and weather continually changes the landscape.

We head south on Hwy 31 toward Lakeview and the Nevada Border. About 30 miles north of Lakeview we turn East and head for Plush, OR, which sits on the Southern end of Warner Valley. From here you can look across the valley to Hart Mountain and the 420 square mile antelope refuge that sits atop it

The remote Warner Valley is bound by high escarpment walls.

Spring brings a burst of wildflowers to the rocky landscape and new growth to the sage. From Plush you go along the northern edge of Hart Lake and then skirt the eastern side of marsh lands around Anderson and Swamp Lakes.

We climb 3,600 feet above the valley floor.

At the edge of Upper Campbell Lake we turn East and start up Hart Mountain to the refuge headquarters. It’s a pretty steep climb from the valley floor to the headquarters site.

At the first switch back there’s a short hike loop that runs along the canyon edge and offers spectacular views up and down the valley.

Amid the scatter of rock and sage is a variety of paintbrush and other small desert blooms.

Out here you don’t want to be without a hard copy of the route.

There is a standing rule in our adventure plans that we don’t return by the same route. So, from the headquarter station we turn north again and across the flat plateau atop Hart Mountain. Eventually this gravel track puts us on the western edge of the Steens Range at Frenchglen and the southern part of the Malheur Refuge. From here the loop is completed via Burns and Highway 20 west to Bend.