Walking the Badlands

There are lots of options for hikes around us, but none of them transport you back in time like the Oregon Badlands Wilderness. High desert and Central Oregon landscape really don’t begin to explain the terrain you walk through on this complex of trails just 20 minutes east of Bend.

Weekends from May to September, the parking lots are packed from sunrise to sunset. The place is just that popular.  However, if you come out on a winter’s morning you’ll often find no one around.  Like we did on this day. For us the cold, today it was 17 degrees at 8am, is preferred to the heat of a summer day.

Gnarled ancient junipers, desert sand paths, and jutting igneous rock make for a very different view from our typical walks along streams and rivers. The place is very dog friendly and the trails are wide and not technically challenging.  We went out on the Flat Iron Loop looking for a good sunrise and thoroughly enjoyed the quiet morning.

 

In search of a sunrise

Since moving to Central Oregon we’ve noticed there is an abundance of sky. The Cascade range is now to the west and the high desert’s sage brushed plains stretch out to the east. The weather moves from the southwest to the northeast. Unlike the rainy Willamette valley, fronts break free of the peaks and sprint out across the sage and juniper dotted landscape.

 

As winter takes over, trail and hiking options narrow. The camper is winterized and while there is winter fishing, most of our excursions are planned around photo ops. This week JQ was determined to find a good spot to shoot a sunrise. What does that mean?  We are going location scouting. The actual shoot will need careful weather related planning.

Scouting still requires early morning drives. But we are pushing out to the east for an obstruction free, or relatively obstruction free point to capture that Quinacridone Red moment. That moment just before the sun pushes over the eastern edge of the earth. The key here is obstruction free because as it turns out the barren landscapes of Oregon’s high desert are dotted with ugly transmission lines, polebarns, and assorted manmade intrusions to the perfect sunrise.

The first scouting was on Highway 20 about 18 miles east of Bend at the Badlands Wilderness area. Ancient juniper trees, jutting rock formations, and sandy trails are a great hiking spot and while there are some interesting image capture possibilities, it’s not perfect.

Next day and again a pre-dawn drive…this time on Highway 31 toward Silver Lake and the Christmas Valley. Where Badlands’ obstructions were trees and lack of elevation, this area proved difficult to find a space without gigantic hay barns or ugly transmission lines.  But there was a much more diverse cloud cover to offer interesting textures to the skyline.

In the end, we’ve got a couple of possibilities and now have to start watching the weather report for ideal conditions. As usual, we’ll share those travels here as well.

A turn at every road

In traveling Central Oregon roads, you’ll notice that in this high desert country there are no shortage of side roads. Dirt tracks, some of which have a USFS number, others are just a couple of tire tracks off a road apron. The open understory of these forests make it pretty easy to lay out a road and unlike the rain dense forests on the West side, the understory doesn’t overgrow even some ancient logging tracks.

What happens is that even with a winter snow, you can find walkable side routes and Tip has grown accustomed to these impromptu walks. So much so, that as we are heading up for a day hike or other excursion, he will ask to stop. OK, so technically he’s not saying anything, but he’s developed a series of huffs and nose whistles that are as good as any established language. Everyone in the car understands what is being communicated.

This is in no way a complaint. To the contrary. We have made some interesting discoveries prompted by Tip’s suggestions. And many of these brief stops have found us exploring a different direction. After all, the idea was to get out and walk, so this may be as good a place as any.

Holiday birding


Turns out we don’t have to go very far to do some bird watching. The Sunriver Nature Center is on a small lake that is home to a nesting pair of Trumpeter Swans. And JQ’s camera captured one, along with numerous Canada geese all hunkered down on a crisp winter morning.

We visit this place often when we want to get in a little walking and take in the
seasonal changes. Sunriver isn’t the easiest place to find your way around, but after a couple of trips we’ve mastered the route with it’s four different roads and two traffic circles.

In the summer the trails are full of bike riders, but late fall and winter there is hardly anyone around and the birds don’t seem to care that the pond is clogged with ice.