Food & Cooking

October 8, 2023October 12, 2023

Apple Season

There are seventy-five hundred varieties of apples in the world, a third of these get grown in the United States. If you are still picking up Red Delicious at the grocery you’re missing . . . a lot . . . of great apples.

Now most of these varieties come from crosses of heirloom trees and their differences lay mostly in minute fluctuations in sweetness. It is also worth noting, how very difficult it would be to find samples of all apple varieties in any one place.

Fruit trees are regionally specific, but the Pacific Northwest is a major player in apple production.

There aren’t many types of fruit that offer this level of variety. Nor, perhaps, share the apples level of popularity.

In recent years the types of apples you’d find at a local grocer has expanded. To some degree this is being pushed by a more global market.

However, family orchards, like you find on the hills above Hood River, have done their part in the propagation of old and introduction of new apple types, as well as other fruit varieties.

Hillsides filled with orchards and exposure to so many different types of fruit is the reason we drive to the Hood River a few times every Fall.

The Kiyokawa Family Orchard grows around a hundred varieties of apples, from Akane to Zestar, most of which won’t show-up in the produce aisle at your local grocer.

There’s also a couple dozen different types of pears . . . Anjou to Warren, and again lots of unique names. At any given point in the season there will be thirty different boxes and bins of tree ripened fruit to choose from.

Still room for some more fruit in that bag

What is ready for sale sits in a ring of wooden racks supporting boxes loaded with fruit and wearing placards noting sweetness level and some tasting notes. You buy a container (bag or box) sized to meet your needs and then fill that bag from any of the available boxes.

We chose the standard bag which held a couple dozen apples and half a dozen pears. This translated into six different apple varieties and two different kinds of pears. We also picked up a couple of small bins of plums, most of which were devoured on the trip back over the mountain to home.

Is it really fall before you fill a bag with fresh apples grown on the hills overlooking the Columbia River?

. . . I don’t think so.

July 16, 2023July 15, 2023

Summer Fruit Sorbets

Pretty much all of you are enduring record heat this week. It makes getting outside a bit more difficult. However, there are some upsides to the current high temperatures.

Ice cream. In our case . . . berry sorbet (recipe is linked below).

We are at the height of berry season, so of course this is a great time to enjoy the harvest. Typically we’d be canning jam and jelly, but that’s counterproductive in this heat wave. We are freezing fruit this summer to be used for projects in the fall, when heating the house isn’t a problem.

But there is no reason not to enjoy fresh berries now. We have found a great way to ‘store’ some of that fresh berry goodness. Sorbet!

It is simple to make . . . just fruit, a bit of sugar and a dash of lemon juice. We take our ice cream very serious in this house and have a high tech ‘churn,’ but any ice cream maker will work.

This batch was made with loganberries. We still have a bit of strawberry sorbet in the freezer. Paired with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream, it brings back memories of old fashioned creamsicles.

All in all, it is even better than lemonade or iced coffee at chillin’.

Print Recipe

5 from 1 vote

Loganberry Sorbet

Fresh fruit in a ice cold package

Ingredients

4 cups fresh (or frozen) berries 450 g
1 cup water 250 g
⅔ cup sugar 130 g
2 tsp fresh squeezed lemon juice

Instructions

Puree the berries in a blender with water until smooth. Press the mixture through a strainer to remove the seeds. Stir in the lemon juice.
Chill mixture thoroughly, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

November 6, 2022November 5, 2022

Simple as Apple Pie

Gradually the days grow colder and our interest in the weather is focused on the next snowstorm.

We’ve finished up this year’s canning projects, and our plan to replenish a dwindling supply of Apple Butter and Crabapple Jelly is now complete.

If you spend time in a kitchen it’s likely you’ve put-up jam. If you tend a garden, you know the difference between hot-water bath and pressure canning.

While not essential, most pantries benefit from simple canning efforts. It is a great way to elevate your PB&J.

We’d put up a few pints of jam at the height of berry season, but the cool days of fall make it a much more pleasant task.

Farmer’s markets present good places to pick fresh for a dinner or two, but not for canning. Between the last sunny days of August and that first snow in October we swing through the Fruit Loop and pick out a mix of eating and cooking apples, as well as a handful of pears.

This week we finished up the last of the apples with a baking project. Apple pie scaled to Hand Pie . . . not turnovers but with laminated dough. Joanne Chang has a recipe for a flaky, buttery crust which we fill with apple, cinnamon and sugar. Perfect pie for a picnic box and very easy to make.

We’ll attach the recipes to the bottom of the post and encourage you to try the crust recipe on any pie.

Print Recipe

Master Single-Crust Pate Brisee

Author: Joanne Chang/Pastry Love

Ingredients

1 cup AP flour [140 g]
2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/8 sticks unsalted butter [130 g]
1 large Egg yok (at room temperature)

Instructions

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, paddle together the flour, sugar, and salt for 10 to 15 seconds. Cut the butter into about 12 pieces and add it to the flour mixture. Paddle slowly until the flour is no longer bright white and the mixture holds together when you clump it, and there are still lumps of butter the size of pecans throughout…30-45 seconds.
Whisk together the egg yolk and milk in a small bowl and add them all at once to the flour-butter mixture. Paddle very briefly, just until it barely comes together, about 30 seconds it will look really shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.
Dump the dough out into a clean work surface and gather it together into a tight mound. Using the heel of your hand, smear the dough starting at the top of the mound and sliding your hand down the sides of the mound along the work surface, until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the whole thing comes together. (The technique is called fraisage, and makes for a very flaky pie dough.)
Wrap the dough tightly with plastic wrap and press down to make a disk about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using.
The dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 4 weeks. Wrap in another layer of plastic if storing for more than 1 day

Print Recipe

Fruit Hand Pies

Author: Joanne Chang / Pastry Love

Ingredients

1 recipe Master Single - Crust Pate Brisee
250 grams fresh or frozen fruit
1 large egg for egg wash
1 Tbsp sanding sugar

Blueberry filling [250 grams ]

3 Tbsp superfine sugar
1 Tbsp cornstarch
1/8 tsp salt
¼ tsp grated lemon zest

Apple Filling [250 grams]

1/4 cup brown sugar
1-2 Tbsp flour
pinch Salt, Cinnamon, and Nutmeg

Instructions

for Blueberry filling

In a saucepan, combine about ¾ of the blueberries, the superfine sugar, cornstarch, and salt, and stir together with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Turn the heat on medium high and stir occasionally, until the blueberries start to soften and let out juice. Bring the mixture just to a boil, then remove from heat. Add the remaining blueberries and the lemon zest and stir to combine. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

For Apple Filling

Peel, core and slice apples into small bite size pieces. Add brown sugar, flour and seasonings and stir. Allow to macerate (soften) for ½ hour.

Basic Hand Pie

Preheat oven to 325 degrees and place a rack in the center of the oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the pate brisee from the fridge about 15 minutes before using it to soften slightly.
Generously flick flour over the work surface. Portion out 6 individual pieces of the dough and roll each one out in a circle 1/8 inch thick. Dock the dough all over with a fork. Lay the circles on parchment paper. Whisk the egg for the egg wash in a small bowl. Use a pastry brush to brush the egg wash over the perimeter of one circle. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the fruit filling in the middle of the circle. Carefully fold the circle over the filling to make a half-moon keeping the filling inside and press firmly around the edge of the circle to seal. Repeat to fill the remaining circles.
Freezing Hand Pies: At this point you can freeze the hand pies on a baking sheet until solid. Transfer them to an airtight container, and store in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. When you are ready to bake the pies, remove them from the freezer and bake as instructed, adding up to 5 minutes to the baking time.
Brush the tops of the hand pies with the remaining egg wash and sprinkle them evenly with the sanding sugar. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, rotating the baking sheet midway through the baking time, until the pies are evenly golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool.
Hand pies should be enjoyed the same day they are baked, but they can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature overnight. If you are serving them the next day, refresh them in a 300 degree oven for about 8 minutes.

October 16, 2022October 14, 2022

Apple Season

Apples destined for sorbet, chutney, turnovers, fritters, tarts, and pies

To most, this time of year is Fall … to us it is Apple Season.

For a few weeks, on the northern foothills of Mt. Hood, between the end of September and early November, you can find roadside stands offering tree-ripened fruit.

Kiyokawa Family Orchards is in Parkdale, which is twenty minutes from Hood River, or two hours from Bend, depending where you start your journey. For us, the reason to travel to the highest reaches of the Hood River fruit orchards … is Kiyokawa.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a better variety of tree fruit in one spot. There is literally a maze of apples and pears. JQ does her research and builds a list. In years past these excursions ended with bags of un-identified fruit, so now, armed with a list, we are more focused.

Dolgo crabapples for jelly and McIntosh for apple butter

From left to right, Hanner’s Jumbo, one of the largest apples, Dolgo Crabapple, Pink Pearl

Apples and pears for picnic boxes are only part of the haul.

There will be a batch of apple butter and slices for gallettes and pies added to the freezer.

Crabapple jelly is on the list of new projects this fall.

August 28, 2022August 28, 2022

Picnic Snacks

Today’s picnic features Brown Butter Crispy Rice Treats and Oatmeal cookies

Is it really a picnic lunch if there’s no ‘cake’? While growing up, my family’s fishing trips featured Camping Cake, a date rich cake, topped with walnuts and chocolate chips, transported in an aluminum nine by thirteen pan.

We’ll focus today’s post on the best part of any picnic, because … Every Picnic Needs to have Snacks (part of our ongoing Rules to Live By).

Lately, we’ve been working through cookie recipes for our picnic boxes … well, evening snacks too. Classic cookie recipe searches will bring up a surprisingly long and not so surprising unvaried list. But that is just the type of cookie that can survive a road trip in a tin box.

In the midst of this quest, JQ discovered an excellent book by Joanne Chang Flour: A Baker’s Collection of Spectacular Recipes. Chang’s book approaches everyday recipes with additions that make for extraordinary desserts.

For instance, the oatmeal cookie recipe in this book has a subtle hint of nutmeg, which really makes this basic staple addictive. What is not just classic but iconic? Rice Crispy Treats, right?

What elevates this recipe is two additions … browning the butter and adding vanilla bean.

Chang’s **Brown Butter Crispy Rice Treats** is a nice take on how you’d imagine the original tastes, but without getting too many pans dirty. We’ve shared the map to crispy goodness below.

Print Recipe

Brown Butter Crispy Rice Treats

Ingredients

228 grams unsalted butter 2 sticks
½ vanilla bean sliced lengthwise
280 grams marshmallows 2 x 10oz bags
240 grams crispy rice cereal 9 cups
pinch salt

Instructions

Butter a 9 x 13 baking pan.
In a large sauce pan, melt the butter over low heat. As the butter melts, slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds directly into the butter.
Once the butter has melted, it will start to bubble and crackle. Watch carefully to see it slowly brown. As soon as the bubbling subsides, after about 5 minutes, the butter will be browned. Add the marshmallows and a pinch of salt and stir constantly over low heat until the marshmallows are completely melted and the vanilla seeds are evenly distributed.
Remove the pan from the heat, add the cereal, and mix well to combine. Turn the mixture into the prepared pan and pat into an even layer. allow to cool for about an hour, or to room temperature, then cut into even pieces.
Treats can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days